Research Summary
Ceramides are a family of lipids composed of a sphingoid base and a fatty acid. In the skin, they are primarily found in the stratum corneum, where, along with cholesterol and free fatty acids, they form the inter-corneocyte lipids. Together with other lipid groups, ceramides play a crucial role in the formation of dense lamellar structures between adjacent corneocytes. This structure is essential for maintaining an effective barrier against water evaporation and protecting the skin from the penetration of foreign agents.
Changes in ceramide levels and relative composition, which can lead to impaired lipid arrangement, have been observed in various skin conditions and diseases. Consequently, the use of suitably formulated ceramides has been proposed for topical treatments to help restructure damaged lipid arrangements and repair impaired skin barrier functions. However, formulating ceramides into products requires specific processes, such as heating to high temperatures before they can be introduced into the final formula.
In this review, we discuss the structure, role, and potential of ceramides in skincare, emphasizing the necessity for rigorous processes when incorporating ceramides into final products. We also demonstrate the counterproductive effects of undissolved ceramides on the skin barrier repair capacity of the formulas, as assessed in various in vitro models of disrupted skin barriers.
Keywords: ceramides, emulsion, formulation, skin barrier, skin physiology/structure, topical application
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