Thermal analysis studies on human skin and skin barrier modulation by fatty acids and propylene glycol

Thermal analysis studies on human skin and skin barrier modulation by fatty acids and propylene glycol

Research Summary:

The thermal behaviour of human stratum corneum (SC) with various hydration levels was studied using differential thermal analysis (DSC) within the temperature range of –130 to 120°C. SC containing 20% water, resembling the intact condition, shows thermal transitions at around –20°C (representing water in skin), –10, 40, and 70°C (representing skin lipids), 85°C (representing protein-associated lipids), and 100°C (representing skin protein). Dehydration of SC causes the transitions at –20 and 100°C to be invisible. Lipid extraction followed by dehydration eliminates all transitions. Further hydration produces a transition of water at around 0°C with a huge change in enthalpy.

The perturbation effects of penetration enhancers, fatty acids (FA) and propylene glycol (PG), were studied using DTA on SC after pretreatment with PG alone and FA/PG. The application of PG alone shifted the transitions at 70 and 85°C to lower temperatures. Additionally, the application to dehydrated stratum corneum removes the transitions at –10°C. Saturated fatty acids, e.g., nonanoic and decanoic acids, exert barely noticeable effects on the thermal behaviour of SC, suggesting that they easily mix with the skin lipids.

Thermal analysis also revealed that the cis-9- and 13-isomers of octadecenoic acid (monounsaturated fatty acids) form a separate domain containing mostly the pure fatty acids within the SC lipids and suppress the lipid transitions at 70/80°C. Polyunsaturated fatty acids, linoleic and α-linolenic acids, form separate domains but do not completely suppress the SC lipid transitions at 70/80°C as monounsaturated acids do. This study suggests different ways of perturbation by various fatty acids.


Keywords: differential thermal analysis, fatty acids, human stratum corneum, propylene glycol, skin lipid, skin permeation enhancer.

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