Research Summary:
Background: Vitamin C is a micronutrient present in high concentrations in normal skin and is a highly prescribed cosmeceutical known for its protective effects against ultraviolet-induced pigmentation and its role in regulating collagen production. However, there is a lack of studies evaluating the efficacy of topical vitamin C in photoaging and melasma, making this systematic review the first to assess the existing evidence.
Aim: This systematic review aims to evaluate whether topical vitamin C could be effective in reversing signs of photoaging and treating melasma.
Methods: Prospective, randomized controlled trials that assessed protocols involving topically applied vitamin C in patients with melasma or photodamage were searched in the Medline, CENTRAL, and Scopus databases until May 12, 2022. The risk of bias was assessed using the Cochrane Collaboration's tool for evaluating risk in randomized trials, with analysis conducted using RevMan 5.0.
Results: Seven publications were included, comprising a total of 139 volunteers. Studies that evaluated skin topography indicated that treated skin appeared smoother and less wrinkled, which was supported by biopsy data. Objective assessments of pigmentation showed a significant lightening of the treated skin. Hydration improved similarly in both vitamin C and placebo-treated sites.
Conclusions: This study revealed that vitamin C is effective in treating uneven, wrinkled skin and possesses depigmenting properties; however, long-term use may be required to achieve noticeable changes. Q-switched Nd:YAG laser-associated protocols appear beneficial in enhancing the effects of vitamin C. Topical vitamin C may serve as a suitable alternative for melasma and photoaging treatment, but further studies are needed to confirm these results and determine the ideal concentration of vitamin C.
KEYWORDS: melasma, photoaging, photodamage, solar lentigines, vitamin C
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