Research Summary
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are organic acids with one hydroxyl group attached to the alpha position of the acid. AHAs, including glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and citric acid, are often extensively used in cosmetic formulations. They have been applied as superficial peeling agents and to improve the appearance of keratoses and acne in dermatology. However, caution should be exercised due to potential adverse reactions among patients using products with AHAs, such as swelling, burning, and pruritus.
Whether AHAs enhance or decrease photodamage of the skin remains unclear, leading to the question: are AHAs friends or foes of the skin? The aim of this manuscript is to review the various biological effects and mechanisms of AHAs on human keratinocytes and in an animal model. We conclude that the impact of AHAs on human skin depends largely on their concentration. These mechanisms are currently well understood, aiding in the development of novel approaches for the prevention of UV-induced skin damage.
Keywords: alpha-hydroxy acids, UVB, apoptosis, keratinocyte, glycolic acid.
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