Research Summary
The last two decades have seen a rise in active-led skincare products in the over-the-counter and retail markets. Consumers have become increasingly knowledgeable about ingredients used in topical products, resulting in formulations with vitamins and other active ingredients gaining popularity. Additionally, with the growing demand for instant and short-term benefits, consumers are gravitating toward high doses of active products. This trend poses a challenge for formulation scientists, who must stabilize these high active doses and ensure potency over the product's shelf life.
Vitamin C, or ascorbic acid, is one such ubiquitous active ingredient commonly found in topical products that claim to brighten, firm, and tone the skin. Since humans lack the enzyme required for synthesizing Vitamin C, we rely on diet or topical application to obtain it. However, dietary Vitamin C consumption results in insignificant benefits due to its limited bioavailability, making topical application the preferred route for delivering its benefits. As an antioxidant, ascorbic acid protects the skin from damaging free radicals caused by UV exposure and environmental stressors.
However, ascorbic acid is known to be unstable in aqueous systems and readily undergoes oxidation, which renders it inactive. This instability has led to the development of various pro-drugs and derivatives that dissociate to release free ascorbic acid or its ionic form within the skin. In this review, we focus on the clinical efficacy of Vitamin C and its derivatives, highlighting their suitability for various applications. This review aims to provide formulators with a ready reference when creating Vitamin C-based products.
Keywords: Ascorbic Acid, Vitamin C, Antioxidant, Depigmentation, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside
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