Research Summary
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is a water-soluble vitamin and a recognized antioxidant drug used topically in dermatology to treat and prevent changes associated with photoaging, as well as for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Ascorbic acid neutralizes free radicals by interacting with superoxide, hydroxyl, and free oxygen ions, preventing inflammatory processes, carcinogenesis, and other processes that accelerate skin photoaging.
Current research focuses on finding stable compounds of ascorbic acid and exploring new alternatives for its administration in the dermis. Unlike plants and most animals, humans lack the ability to synthesize ascorbic acid due to the absence of the enzyme L-gulono-gamma-lactone oxidase, which catalyzes the terminal step in ascorbic acid biosynthesis. Consequently, humans must obtain this vitamin from the diet or through supplements to prevent diseases and maintain general well-being.
Ascorbic acid is involved in key metabolic functions and is vital for the growth and maintenance of healthy bones, teeth, gums, ligaments, and blood vessels. However, it is a very unstable vitamin, easily oxidized in aqueous solutions and cosmetic formulations. It is widely used as an ingredient in anti-aging cosmetic products, often in the form of sodium ascorbate or ascorbyl palmitate.
This review discusses the potential roles of ascorbic acid in skin health and its clinical applications, including its antioxidative, photoprotective, anti-aging, and anti-pigmentary effects. Considering the instability and challenges of administering ascorbic acid, we also discuss the importance of various factors involved in the formulation and stabilization of topical preparations in this review.
Keywords: ascorbic acid, vitamin C, photoprotection, antioxidant, topical
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