Research Summary:
Background: Skin aging manifests in various forms such as wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and dryness. Both intrinsic and extrinsic factors, especially ultraviolet light-induced oxidative radicals, contribute to the etiology of aging. Human skin requires both water- and lipid-soluble nutrient components, including hydrophilic and lipophilic antioxidants. Vitamins C and E play important protective roles in the aging process and must be supplied exogenously. Raspberry leaf extracts contain botanical actives with the potential to hydrate and moisturize the skin. Topical products containing these ingredients may therefore provide enhanced anti-aging effects compared to single-ingredient formulations.
Objectives: This study aimed to evaluate the anti-aging and brightening effects of an encapsulated serum containing 20% (w/w) vitamin C, vitamin E, and European raspberry (*Rubus idaeus*) leaf cell culture extract.
Methods: Fifty female volunteers aged 30-65 years were assigned one capsule of serum for topical application on one side of the face for two months, in addition to their regular facial skincare products. Both the test (treated) and contralateral (untreated) sides were dermatologically assessed after 4 and 8 weeks. Skin color (melanin index), elasticity, radiance, moisture, and water evaporation were measured using Mexameter MX18®, Cutometer®, Glossymeter GL200®, Corneometer CM825®, and Tewameter TM300® instruments, respectively (Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH). Skin microtopography parameters—smoothness (SEsm), roughness (SEr), scaliness (SEsc), and wrinkles (SEw)—were measured using Visioscan® VC98 USB (Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH). Gross lifting effects were measured using VECTRA® H1 (Canfield Scientific). Adverse reactions and user satisfaction were also assessed.
Results: Significant improvements were observed in skin color, elasticity, and radiance. Smoothness, scaliness, and wrinkles also showed notable improvement. Mild adverse reactions reported included tingling and tightness.
<Access the full report below>